Tips and Techniques

Things I've picked up along the way or which customers have shared, which may or may not be of interest to you. These are in random order.

Ribbon
3/8's inch ribbon works beautifully with all patterns. There is a green ombre ribbon (graduated shades) sold at Michaels in their Textured Trios line. It's usually on an endcap. For those of you who have been at a show, it's the one used in so many of my samples.

I find it best to use old-fashioned transparent tape (the shiny kind) when taping ribbon or fabric. It has greater tack and holds much better than the magic (translucent) tape.


Rippling Ribbon
Ribbon wants to ripple. Taping one side and then pulling the other taut before taping it will help, but ribbon wants to ripple. Using "Tear-by-hand" tape on the back of your quilt when finished will normally solve the problem. It's a 3M Scotch product that I generally buy at the big box stores. The office supply stores also carry it, but I find it's a lot more expensive there. It's a 2" packing tape found in the section with mailing materials. Since you can tear it by hand, it's not only convenient, it's thin. I am not compensated in any way for recommending this product. I do think it's the best I've found though, so I am sharing the information.


Tape
If you use temporary tape to adhere your frame to your pattern, there's no danger in ripping your frame when you remove it.

I stay away from the transparent tape from the dollar stores. "Nuff said!"

I frequently use an adhesive roller and go around the rim of my frame before adhering the first pieces and switch to tape thereafter. Tape is very forgiving and can be removed if I've made a mistake or decide to use another color. The tape roller does not always allow me to do this.


Size of Strips
Since I cut many strips for sale, I have a custom die. It cuts pieces 3" x 1". If working on a standard 4" pattern, only the outer piece needs to be that size, however. You may find it more convenient to fold a long strip of paper and simply tear off the size you need as you need it.

This is almost always the system I use when working on the mini-quilts. The window size of those is 2 1/2" , so the outer strips need to be longer than that, but the other strips are really tiny. Cutting all of your pieces to one size in advance can result in a lot of wasted paper.


Folding
Why do you need to fold the strips? You don't necessarily need to fold your papers, although I always do. It provides for a colored, more finished edge in my opinion. I've seen some lovely quilts done without folding the paper though. Yes, the strips had white edges. Was it totally objectionable? No. Was it less bulky? Absolutely! Try it, you may like it.


Finishing
When you're sure that you're finished with your quilt, and only then, I suggest using "Tear-by-Hand" packing tape on the back of your piece. This is very thin tape and will reduce the bulk of your work without adding to it. I emphasize using it only when you're absolutely sure you're finished since it is not at all forgiving and cannot be removed once applied.


Hardware
If connecting two quilts with clear covers (the Christmas ornament sample with my Grandmother at shows) 4 - 40, 1/2" machine screws are exactly the right size.

If I'm making a wall hanging, I usually attach the covers with brads and then double stick a finishing piece of paper to the back (hiding the prongs). I've also used brads for ornaments. I double stick the covers back to back after adding the brads to each side.


Fabric Pins
Felted wool is marvelous for frames!

Roxanne's Glue-Baste-it works well to adhere fabric to frame if keeping your project no-sew. I've found it at quilt shows or shops. I'm sure there are other fabric adhesives that would also work well.